Glacier Classic 2015, Part 2: Heavens Peak

Relaxing on the summit. Bryan Kercher photo.

Richard Smith at the beginning of the summit ridge. Photo by Joshua Phillips.

Humans are social animals. Mountain climbers, in contrast, tend to be loaners, but we're all still human, so it's great to get together, enjoy each others company, and climb a mountain. On the second day of the Glacier Classic, there were 20+ people waking up at Apgar, raring to go on a hike or climb. One of the harder hikes/climbs was lead by Forest Dean, of Heavens Peak. If you've ever hiked the Highline Trail from Logan Pass, Heavens totally dominates the views west. It's a gorgeous mountain that I wanted to climb after staring at it for three days on the trip to Granite Park with Jen and the kids in July. So I was excited when it was offered as a Glacier Classic climb. 

The climb is off-trail the entire way. About 7.5 miles beyond Lake McDonald Lodge, there's a pull-out where a prominent drainage enters McDonald Creek from the west, and Heaven's Peak sits massively above. The route is relatively straightforward as far as route finding: hike up the drainage to the basin below the summit cliffs, then look to your right (north) for a gully that reaches the summit ridge, gain the ridge, and follow it to the summit. The last 1/4-1/2 mile is an amazing walk on a giant slab. It steepens near the summit, which is the one potentially sketchy spot on the route. In early season, you'd need an ice axe and crampons.  

It was a great day with good folks on one of the most amazing mountains I've ever been on - what a pleasure! After 10 hours of challenging hiking, we reached the cars and drove back to Apgar for burritos as a group.  

Climbing up. You can see the Going to the Sun Road below.

One of the class 3 sections up along the creek.

Heading up to the class 3 gully to gain the summit ridge.

Looking down from the gully, with the sweeping summit ridge of Heavens.

Joshua Phillips and George in the distance.

Resting on the slabs just after gaining the ridge from the gully.

Higher up: Forest Dean, the trip leader.

Forest and Joshua.

Love this shot. Bryan Kercher photo.

Forest on the summit slabs.

A closeup of Forest at the same spot.

Joshua (left) and George on the summit slabs.

Summit slabs near the summit. The pitch steepens.

George and Forest gaining the summit.

Forest on the summit.

Group summit shot. Bryan Kercher photo.

The first bit getting back on the slabs was sketchy.

A shot of me by Joshua Phillips.

Bryan Kercher and the sweeping slabs to Heavens Peak.

Rest stop on the descent.

Sperry Glacier and Gunsight Mountain barely visible in the smoke.

At the end of a long day.